In Search of the Perfect Ouzo

"I don't like licorice!"

That is often the response I get when I ask if someone would like to do a shot of Ouzo with me. Actually, they like a similar confection that is cherry or chocolate flavored, but licorice is licorice. It's black and it's the actual flavor, not the candy itself. We Americans often make the distinction, "I don't like black licorice."

OK, fair enough.

But that has NOTHING to do with Ouzo. Ouzo may taste like (black) licorice, but it's not made from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant. It is instead an extract from similarly flavored anise made from another flowering plant.

Now that the botany lesson is over, lets get down to the drinking.

Ouzo is ONLY made in Greece and Cyprus. Similar tasting products are made around the globe, but Ouzo has a protected designation of origin. Unlike Sambuca, the Italian aperitif which is thicker and more syrupy, Ouzo has a drier taste. It turns milky white when mixed with water or poured over ice. Straight, it maintains it's clarity.

I recall my "old world" uncles drinking this generally with a meze (think tapas, but Greek). Unaccompanied with food, this stuff will go to your head rather quickly.

In the U.S., the brands of Ouzo that are most readily available are Metaxa and No. 12. Personally I think No. 12 is the best available outside of Greece. Other brands available stateside include Sans Rival, Lesvos, and Cambas. But in my opinion, the best brands are kept in the homeland. Mini is produced on the island of Mytilini (Lesvos) and is my favorite. It's crisp taste is the perfect accent to a pre dinner meze (of olives, kasseri (cheese) and pita bread) at say about 8PM as the sun sets into the Aegean, and the bouzouki players are just warming up with some quiet ballads. I think I just spotted my dinner arrive via fishing boat.

Other top brands I've had the good fortune to sample are Plomari and Kefi.

To seek out the perfect Ouzo goes beyond what actually pours out of a bottle. Ask yourself these questions: What brand am I drinking? What's the accompanying meze? Where am I drinking it? Who's drinking with me?

Here are my answers: I'm drinking Mini on the rocks. The meze is stuffed grape leaves with some crispy Greek bread and a few olives. I'm drinking it in Naufplion overlooking the Aegean Sea with the Palamidi Fortress to my left at about 8:30 on a Saturday evening (but anywhere in Greece will do). Finally, who am I drinking with? Well, my wife isn't a huge lover of Ouzo and my son - well, he's a little too young. So, my cousin Thanasi is my choice. His dry wit, infectious laugh and stories about old family members makes for my perfect Ouzo.

Here's some fun info on the national drink of Greece.

A Word About Ouzo

Ouzo is a delightful anise-flavored spirit with a licorice taste that goes down easily, but be careful because it's a potent drink.

In the bottle, ouzo is a clear liquid, but once ice cubes or water are added, it turns a milky white. Ouzo experts say this is because oils in the ouzo are soluble in alcohol but not water. Whatever the reason, diluting ouzo with water tones down the licorice taste, but it still packs quite a punch.

How to Serve Ouzo

Ouzo is generally served as an apéritif or an after-dinner drink, but it's also a reason for friends to get together and enjoy good company and conversation at any time. To the Greeks, serving ouzo in an art. It is drunk slowly, and is always served with at least one meze (small dish of food) because of its potency.

Ouzo can be served straight in a shot glass or, as most of us prefer, over ice in an old-fashioned or highball glass with a pitcher of water to dilute to taste. Ouzo is also an ingredient in several cocktails.

On the islands, a favorite sport is dancing to loud bouzouki music and drinking Ouzo till the head explodes. Trust me, its fun while it's happening, but it's not a hangover you want to experience. An Ouzo hangover really is one of the worst.

Case in point:

COMMENTARY

BY CHRISTY LEMIRE

updated 5:41 p.m. ET Aug. 23, 2004

ATHENS, Greece - I was an ouzo virgin.

Before coming to Athens to cover parties and nightlife during the Olympics, I’d never tasted the powerful licorice liqueur that’s a tradition here. (The closest I’d come to organized Greek drinking involved standing around a keg at the Sigma Chi house.)

So in the spirit of “Super Size Me” — the documentary about the debilitating effects of fast-food consumption — I embarked upon an experiment dubbed “Ouzo-ize Me.” The plan was to drink ouzo all night and document my deterioration. 

I’d hoped ouzo would be gentle with me, even though I had been warned that the hangover can be a killer. Unfortunately, it maintained its agonizing grasp all day: Ouzo Night took place in the wee hours Sunday, and I’d planned to write this later that day, but that was physically impossible.

What is it about this combination of pressed grapes, herbs and berries — including aniseed, licorice, mint, wintergreen, fennel and hazelnut — that makes it so potent?

For starters, it contains about 40 percent alcohol. In theory, you’re not supposed to drink it to get drunk — it’s intended as a social drink, best enjoyed with friends at an ouzeri and accompanied by tiny snacks called mezedes.

Adding water or ice to the clear liquid dilutes it, turning it milky white. But when you drink as much ouzo as I did — and I can’t even say how much because friends kept refilling my glass — nothing could have weakened it, especially for a woman who’s only 5 feet tall.

This Greek tragedy took place at Cafe Avisinia, in a square in the bustling Monastiraki section of Athens at the foot of the Acropolis. By day, the square looks like a rundown parking lot with a quiet cafe in one corner. By night, the place is transformed, crowded with round tables that are packed with people eating and drinking. They also sing along to traditional Greek tunes performed by an accordionist and a buxom, charismatic singer playing the tambourine. Patrons get up and dance joyously, and I eventually joined them.

It was the perfect spot for my adventure — at least, what I can recall. I took notes as I went along but, in time, I needed help from the dozen or so skilled journalists who were brave enough to accompany me.

Apparently, after we left Cafe Avisinia, a few of us went to another bar across the square for beer. Then someone hailed a cab and a colleague made sure I got back safely. I remember none of this.

Sunday consisted of moving very slowly between the bed and the toilet. Around 11 p.m., I called my husband in New York. “You’re alive!” he said. Just barely.

On Monday, in an unintended homage to “Super Size Me,” I ate a McDonald’s double cheeseburger and fries while writing. It was my first solid food in about 36 hours.

I lost a couple of pounds, but I wouldn’t recommend the ouze-and-purge diet to anyone.

So, there you have it. One of just many do's and don'ts for the perfect Ouzo experience. Let me know how yours goes.

Greek Getaway

What?

Greece?

Now?

You Bet!!  Don't let the few protests in Athens' Syntagma Square discourage you. This postage stamp area of square footage might be the flashpoint for angry citizens occasionally getting out of hand protesting austerity measures by the Greek government in the attempt to not default on their massive loans (debt), but Greece is still hoppin', fun, and one of the most beautiful countries in the world.

A trip to the islands especially is a journey worth taking. And if you can afford two weeks or more, it'll be a trip you'll never forget. Whether you like to party or just relax (or a little of both) there are several islands that will remain etched in your memory for a lifetime. It really depends on what suits your fancy.  Why at least two weeks? Because like anywhere in Europe, if you allow, Greece can easily become a working trip. Like the old saying "so much to do, so little time."

Bottom line is...you'll need some downtime. I'm not kidding. Americans, expect a day or two for your body clock to adjust to the time change. You may suddenly wonder why you're wide awake at 4AM on your third day there. It happens.

Anyway, here are a few islands you might want to check out:

Mykonos offers little for the traveller seeking historical antiquities. However, it's a party island like no other. Great beaches with crystal clear water, spectacular views and of course it's famous windmills.

Santorini, arguably he most beautiful of all the islands is known for it's steep cliffs and breathtaking sunsets. And there's plenty for the historian in the group.

Rhodes is the second largest of the Greek islands behind Crete and loaded with history. Its also a bit off the beaten path. There are many great beaches on the island and some nifty little "not so secret" island attractions like the Valley of the Butterflies where thousand of butterflies take to the air in a spectacular arial display.

Mainland Greece.  A favorite destination my family never misses is the port city of Naufplion. This was the first capital of Greece. The old section of the city directly on the Aegean Sea is stunning with it's Palamidi Fortress overlooking the city and the "floating" castle known as Bourdzi. Some wonderful restaurants can be found for authentic home cooked Greek meals. Try Karamanlis right on the water for dishes just like Yia Yia (grandma in Greek) used to make.

When do you go??

Spring, Summer and early Fall is the best time to go to Greece. Personally I love late May and Mid September. But don't take my word for it. Here's some tips from the folks at JustGreece.org

The climate in Greece is characteristic of the Mediterranean climate: mild and rainy winters, relatively warm and dry summers and, generally, extended periods of sunshine throughout most of the year. A great diversity of climate subtypes, always within the Mediterranean climate frame, are encountered in several regions of Greece. This is due to the influence of topography (great mountain chains along the central part and other mountainous bodies) on the air masses coming from the moisture sources of the central Mediterranean Sea. Thus the weather in Greece varies from the dry climate of Athens and East Greece in general, to the wet climate of Northern and Western Greece. 

In climatological conditions, the year can be approximately subdivided into two main seasons: The cold and rainy period lasting from mid-October until the end of March, and the warm and dry season lasting from April until September. 

In summer, dry hot days are often calmed by stiff breezes, especially in the north and coastal areas. Athens can be very hot, so visitors should allow time to acclimatize. The evenings are cool. Winters are mild in the south but much colder in the north. Lightweight clothes during summer months, including protection from the midday sun. Light sweaters are needed for evenings. Rainproofs are advised for autumn. Winter months can be quite cold, especially in the northern mainland, so normal winter wear will be required. 

Greece in May

The weather is terrific - pleasantly warm, light breezes. If you go to shopping you will find that the prices are low and moderate. The events of this month are May 1st (a national labor holiday) and Greek Orthodox Easter. Island hotels and restaurants all open. Boat schedules, air schedules increase. This is a great time to go. 

Greece in July

The weather is hot to very hot. July in Greece is a busy month, full of events. The main festivals are all in full swing. In the beginning of the month, the wildly popular Rockwave Festival shakes Athens. Arts festivals aimed at tourists, sound and light shows. Outdoor cinemas are popular; many mountain villages have special events primarily attended by Greeks though all are welcome. Ioannina Cultural Summer events begin, continue through August. Along with August, July prices are the highest of the year. Everything is open. The frequent flights and ferries are often crowded but in general, it's easiest to get around at this time of year, though the meltemi may cause some delays. 

Greece in September

The weather is terrific - warm, light breezes. The prices are moderate. Everything is open until the last part of the month, and everything is less crowded. Transportation schedules start to cut back about September 15th. A few places on the islands will close at the end of September. Activities for children start to be cut back as the school year begins.T his is a great time to go. 

For more info on your Greek Getaway... visit: http://www.visitgreece.gr

I'll be back again soon with some more tips on places to visit and things to do in Greece.